RECENTLY I was called upon to do a couple of pieces on the news programme on our local radio station, BBC Somerset. The subject was liver. Apparently some butchers had a huge surplus that they couldn't sell and some were sending it to landfill sites.

I couldn't believe what I was hearing, and thought it was a disgrace, so I told them so on the radio!

Of course the younger generation turn their noses up at the thought of liver. They say they don't know how to cook it - again this is the curse of stopping home economics in school - and secondly they didn't like the look of it.

I said it's often sold in a plastic tray and cling-filmed and didn't look at all unappetising.

I also learnt that schools don't use liver or other offal in their school meals. I told my listeners that we should start a campaign across the Westcountry by giving everyone some free liver if they show their bus pass. I bet that while they are there they would buy some bacon to go with it. This would give them a cheap and nutritious meal and with any luck the rest of the family would share it.

Years ago we were told to include liver in our diet at least once a week, and when my children were babies I used to liquidise it with plenty of vegetables. If food gets dearer then I'm sure these cuts will be more in demand.

Liver with bacon doesn't really need a recipe, as it's so easy.

If you look out for bacon pieces then this makes this meal even cheaper. What is more it's delicious and that's why it appears on pub menus and is often the first dish to sell out.

LIVER AND BACON
You need to choose lamb's liver for this but ox's will do. Pig's liver is too strong. Ask the butcher to slice it for you.

It needs to be dusted in flour just before you cook it so if the butcher has used two bags then use the outer one for this purpose.

Just put the flour in the bag drop the slices in one at a time and shake. Get rid of any surplus flour before cooking.

When buying the bacon look for streaky rashers or better still bacon pieces. The latter are very cheap and well worth using. You will need a heavy casserole that can be used on top of the hob or a frying pan, both of which will need a lid.

8 slices of liver
2 tablespoons flour
4 oz bacon or pieces
2 large sliced onion
3 tablespoons oil
1 level teaspoon of tomato
purée
teaspoon mixed herbs
pint beef stock
Salt and pepper
1. Heat the oil in the pan. Dust the liver in the flour and cook in the oil for 2 minutes. Turn them over. Add the bacon pieces and onion. Cook for another 2 minutes.

2. Sprinkle in any flour that was left over and mix it well. Add the herbs, tomato purée and salt and pepper.

3. Pour in the stock. Give it all a good stir, place on the lid and turn the heat down so it is just simmers.

4. Cook for 20 minutes; if it needs more gravy then add some water or more stock.

(Serves 4 portions).

COUNTRY LIVER PATÉ
If you don't want a hot dish using liver than make it into my pâté. This is great with a salad or just on buttered toast.

You don't need to use the olives or walnuts, but the latter do add interest when the pâté's sliced. Talking of pickled walnuts, keep an eye on the green ones as they must be young for pickling. You need to be able to pass a needle through the shell to the centre. If you can't they are too old and you will have to let them ripen on the tree. Pickled walnuts are ideal served at Christmas time and a small jar makes a good gift. I'll give you a recipe at the end so you will be ready for them. I digress so here's my pâté.

lb streaky bacon
1 lb liver, preferably lamb's
3 tablespoons brandy
1 egg
2 tablespoons double cream
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 - 4 cloves garlic
4 juniper berries
1 - 2 pickled walnuts or black olives (optional)
seasoning
1. Line a pâté mould or bread tin with the stretched bacon.

2. In a food processor blend the liver with the brandy, cream, lemon juice, garlic, juniper berries and egg, and put half of the mixture in the pâté mould/tin.

3. Coarsely chop the walnuts or black olives (if using), and place down the middle of the mixture. Add the rest of the liver mixture. Flip the ends of the bacon over.

4. Place in a bain-marie, and pour enough water to come half up the mould or tin. Cover all with foil.

5. Place in an oven (Gas Mark 4/180C/350F) and cook for 1 hour, or until the mixture leaves the sides of the tin or mould. The pâté should still have a pink tinge to it.

6. While the pâté is cooling down, weight well, and turn out of the mould when cold.

(Serves 6 portions).

Kidneys are another ingredient that are cheap to buy, but appear on expensive menus. Just like liver they are best served in a gravy or sauce. They are best if you can get them still surrounded with suet which the butcher will remove for you. They are also covered in a thin skin that needs to be removed. When preparing use a scissors to cut away any white core, as this goes tough in the cooking.

DEVILLED KIDNEYS FOR BREAKFAST
Ever since Victorian times every large house would have a dish of kidneys served as part of the breakfast menu. They would often appear in a silver dish that sat on the sideboard until required. They used to use lamb's kidneys which had been halved, rather than pig's which are stronger in taste. For a snack they can be served on buttered toast. Here is an updated recipe.

4 halved, prepared lamb
kidneys
1 small onion finely chopped
2 oz butter
1 teaspoon each of, tomato purée, Worcestershire Sauce, lemon juice, and French mustard
Salt and black pepper
Little chopped parsley
1. Heat the butter and fry the kidneys with the onions until the latter are transparent. Add all the seasonings and gently cook for 10 minutes if it appears to get dry then add a little water. Check for seasoning.

2. Remove and serve in a warm dish and sprinkle on the chopped parsley.

KIDNEYS IN ORANGE
This is an old favourite of mine and one I often demonstrated to Women's Institutes around the county as it was quick and easy.

4 lamb's kidneys
1 orange
1 finely chopped onion
2 oz butter
1 level tablespoon flour
1 teaspoon tomato purée
pint beef stock
4 oz pasta shapes eg, twists shells etc
some chopped parsley
seasoning
1. Cook the pasta and drain when al dente. Keep it hot.

2. Prepare the kidneys by removing skin and any white bits, and then chopping them into half inch cubes.

3. Melt the butter and start to sauté the kidneys. Then add the onions.

4. Grate the orange (taking off a few slices for decoration), and then add the rind and juice to the mixture with the tomato purée and flour. Pour in the stock and stir over a gentle heat until mixture thickens (approx five minutes). Check the seasoning.

5. Serve by putting a pile of the pasta on each plate and pouring the kidney mixture on top. Decorate with the orange slice and sprinkle on some chopped parsley.

(Serves 4 portions).

STUFFED HEARTS
When I was a child my father used to go to the Saturday livestock market in Taunton.

Often as a family we would go with him and then meet up for a late lunch in the Burlington. They always had stuffed beef heart on the menu and this was my favourite.

As it was so large they served it in slices with a delicious gravy. It would have to have the stuffing sewn in as otherwise it would fall out. It needs to be cooked for several hours with constant basting to prevent it from drying out in the long cooking time.

Nowadays it's easier to stuff lambs hearts.

4 lamb's hearts
Stuffing
4 oz pork sausage meat
2 oz fresh breadcrumbs
1 finely chopped onion
Some chopped fresh herbs
e.g. thyme, sage or parsley
1 egg yolk
Salt and pepper
8 oz of mixed root
vegetables
2 oz butter
1. Par-boil the vegetables and place in the base of a large ovenproof dish (with a lid), with 2 tablespoons of the vegetable liquor.

2. Prepare the hearts by washing them and removing the tubes and excess fat.

3. Mix all the stuffing ingredients together. Press this into the hollows of the hearts and stand them up in the dish. Dot with the butter. Cover with the lid.

4. Bake in a moderate oven for an hour basting well in between.

5. If you want a crispy top then remove the lid before the end of the cooking time.

6. Serve with the roasted vegetables and a gravy.

(Serves 4 portions).

PICKLING WALNUTS
Before you start I will warn you that you need to wear rubber gloves as walnuts stain the hands very badly.

Using only young walnuts place in a large plastic container and cover with brine (8 oz salt to 4 pints of water) and leave for a week. After which you drain them and repeat the process. Drain them again but this time lay them out on a large tray to dry.

They are best put in the sun when they should take two days. You can tell when they are done as they go black.

Put them then in a jar and cover with hot spiced vinegar. Cover with a lid (not metal) and leave for at least a month before using them.

  • Frances Kitchin can be heard on BBC Somerset (95.5 MHz FM and 1566 kHz AM).