Janice Houghton-Wallace looks at what is involved in producing a successful brood.

The challenge of reproducing new life is irresistible but a good hatch begins with the parent stock and whether or not they are fit and in good health. If you have a poor quality cockerel, then he is unlikely to produce strong, healthy chicks so only incubate eggs from your best stock.

Elderly birds will be less fertile than younger stock and if antibiotics have been administered because of an infection then this will affect fertility for a period as well. Nutrition is an important element in the good health of breeding stock. If poultry are not given the necessary formula for keeping themselves healthy and active, as well as help with producing good quality eggs, then first rate chicks will not be forthcoming. Ideally feed breeding stock on breeders pellets as these contain more amino-acids, vitamins and trace elements than layers pellets.

Fertility can be affected by something as simple as too much fluff around the hen’s vent area. Some breeds are more prone than others, such as the Orpington. If the eggs are clear after being incubated for over a week and the cockerel appears to be working, it could be that the hen’s feathers around the vent area need to be clipped back to help contact during mating.

When selecting eggs for incubation only choose those that are not misshapen, have a good shell with no hairline cracks and have no lines or ripples, especially at the base. Eggs that are incorrectly shaped, have other imperfections or are dirty will not develop correctly.

Eggs should be collected everyday and stored in a cool, dry place with the wider end of the egg uppermost and turned daily to prevent the embryo sticking to the membrane.

Should a broody hen be used instead of an incubator then place her in a broody coop, in a quiet area, or in a cardboard box containing shavings in a predator proof shed and let her settle. It can be useful to put a couple of eggs as decoys under her for the first day or two until you are confident that she is happily ‘sitting’ in the prepared area. Then you can swap the decoy eggs for those for incubation whilst she is having her daily break. If anything, she will be even more pleased that suddenly more eggs have materialised.

Once a day take her off the nest and in a penned area give her feed and water. A twenty minute break will allow her time to defecate as well as eat and drink then she will be ready to return to the nest. If left with access to the nest during this time she may try to go straight back to the eggs and not relieve herself properly or eat or drink sufficiently

Large fowl and bantam eggs take 21 days to incubate, so keep a record of the date when hatching should commence. The broody will tell you by her body language when the eggs are pipping, so do not disturb her during this period. A broody fluffs herself even more at this stage and begins to ‘cluck’, already talking to the chicks and encouraging them to escape the shell.

After several hours, maybe even the following day, check that all is well and place a narrow lipped chick drinker and chick crumbs in a feeder near the broody. I always finely chop a freshly hard- boiled egg and mix this in with some crumbs.

The broody will give any further eggs a certain time to hatch - usually about two days – and then she will concentrate on the chicks. When this happens remove dud eggs and soiled litter and replace with clean shavings. Make sure that fresh water is given regularly as chicks have a habit of defecating anywhere and everywhere. Keep the feeder clean as well and always topped up with crumbs. Try not to disturb the broody and her chicks too much for this is an important time for her and brooding will be her priority.

Good hygiene and removing damp and soiled shavings daily is essential in keeping chicks healthy. If they are challenged by a dirty environment they could soon succumb to bugs such as coccidiosis. This is a parasite that can affect young birds from 3 weeks of age. Some chick crumb brands contain a coccidiostat which inhibits the parasite in the gut.

If litter is not kept clean waste material can accumulate on chicks toes and feet and if left can form a hard ball. Gently pick at the ball to remove it but never just pull it as the claw is likely come away as well.

Chicks from an incubator should have heat for six weeks or until they begin to feather properly. Make sure the heat lamp is not too high in which case the chicks will be cold and stand rather than lie in order to reach some heat. If the lamp is too low the chicks will spread out in a circle to escape the direct heat.

Make sure the chicks are not in any draughts as these can be a killer. Whether chicks are under a heat lamp or a broody, see that they are protected from draughts and wind. Once chicks have feathers rather than down they can go outside into a broody pen if the weather is sufficiently warm. They also need to be in a confined, netted area so they are protected from birds of prey, corvids, cats and dogs and brought inside again before it starts to cool.

At around 5 to 6 weeks of age introduce the chicks onto grower pellets, mixing the growers with the crumbs before the actual change over and offer some chick grit. Do not provide grain for the broody where the chicks can reach it as they will not be able to digest grain until they are about twelve weeks.

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This article first appeared in Smallholder magazine. Make sure you're the first to read it by subscribing via the website or finding a copy in your local newsagent.