At this time of the year, when we need to keep ourselves warm, you can’t beat an old fashioned pudding. They are delicious, nutritious and cheap.

The only thing against them is, if you get a tasting for them it might put inches on the waist and a bigger jumper might be needed. These puddings are very popular on pub’s menus but I sometimes wonder whether they are part of “ping cooking” which is a great shame as they can be kept hot for ages and going via a microwave doesn’t help.

I thought I’d start with Spotted Dick Pudding as it always makes me smile. In fact they tell me years ago the word “dick” was an old word for a pudding or dough and the “spots” were the currants or raisins. But this traditional pudding it not as simple as it seems. I always knew it as a steamed pudding in a basin but others make it in a cloth and that is what I call a “Jam Roly Poly Pudding”. I wonder whether it changed years ago when this pudding could be bought commercially in a tin. I’m not taking sides so I will include both as they are very different and you can call them what you like. Just for the record I have a new editor looking after this page so please don’t swamp his desk with letters telling me which is which.

MY SPOTTED DICK PUDDING This is a basic steamed pudding using suet. To make it lighter, you add some fresh breadcrumbs instead of all flour. When placing on the cover make a pleat across it so that when it swells during the cooking it has extra space.

6 oz plain flour 2ozs fresh white breadcrumbs 3ozs suet 1 teaspoon baking-powder 3 oz sugar 3ozs currants or raisins ¼ teaspoons mixed spice Good pinch salt 1 egg ¼ pint milk approx 1. Grease a pudding basin and the greaseproof paper lid.

2. Mix together the flour, salt, baking powder, spice, sugar, breadcrumbs, dried fruit and suet. Drop in the beaten egg and add enough the milk to achieve a dropping consistency.

3. Spoon the mixture into the basin, cover with greased paper, and steam or boil for 2 to 2½ hours.

4. When cooked turn out of the basin onto a hot plate and serve with plenty of custard.

MY JAM ROLY POLY PUDDING Which some of you call a ‘Spotted Dick’.

12 oz plain flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 6 oz suet Pinch of salt 2 tablespoons jam (approx) Little water for mixing You need a good piece of an old white sheet in which to wrap it. Make sure the cloth is really clean and hasn’t any coloured decoration on it.

1. Sift the flour with the baking powder in to a large bowl and add the salt and suet. Pour in enough water to make dough that can be rolled out.

2. Roll out to a rectangle that is ¼ inch thick. Spread the jam over it but not to the edges.

3. Dampen the edges and then carefully roll the pastry lengthwise to make a long sausage.

4. Spread out the cloth and dust it with flour before wrapping the pudding in it. Secure the ends well with string.

5. Drop into boiling water and simmer for 2 hours making sure the water doesn’t dry up while cooking.

6. Serve by carefully unrolling the cloth and placing the pudding on a warm plate. Cut the pudding into large slices and serve with plenty of custard.

MARMALADE PUDDING This is a great favourite steamed pudding of mine as it doesn’t include suet and is made by the creaming method. I often make it as you can use marmalade, syrup or any jam that has been lurking in the fridge for a while.

3 tablespoons marmalade 4 oz plain flour 4ozs butter 4ozs cater sugar 2 beaten eggs 1/2 level teaspoon baking powder Good pinch of salt Few drops vanilla essence Little milk 1. Cream the butter with the sugar and then beat in the eggs with the vanilla essence. Fold in the flour with the baking powder and salt. Add enough milk to get a thick dropping consistency.

2. Make a greaseproof disc to put in the bottom of the pudding basin. Grease this and the edges of the basin. Spoon in the marmalade, then put the mixture on top, and cover with pleated greaseproof paper. Boil or steam for at least 1½ to 2 hours. Serve with custard.

EVE’S PUDDING This is another pudding using apples as an interesting base. Instead of steaming it you bake it. 8 oz flour 2 level teaspoons baking powder 3 oz butter 3 oz cater sugar 1 beaten egg Few drops vanilla essence Pinch of salt 1 lb prepared sliced apples 1. Sieve the flour, baking powder and salt together and rub in the butter. Stir in the sugar.

2. Make a well in the centre and drop in the egg with the essence, and add half the apples.

3. Grease a pudding dish well and place the remaining apples in the base. Cover with the sponge mixture.

4. Bake for 45 minutes at 190ºC / 375ºF / Gas Mark 5 and lower the heat if the sponge looks as if it is getting overcooked.

5. Serve with plenty of custard BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING This is another favourite of mine as it gets rid of surplus bread. You need to have thin slices but it’s better not to use that sold in plastic. Don’t spare the butter as this makes it richer and crispy.

Approximately ½ loaf bread, buttered More butter for greasing the dish 2 oz sultanas 1 egg and 1 egg yolk 2 oz sugar ½ pint full cream milk (or ¼ pint milk and ¼ pint cream) A few drops of vanilla extract Sprinkling of mixed spice (optionally) Some freshly grated nutmeg 1. Butter a shallow 2-pint dish liberally, and line the bottom and sides with the buttered bread. It should fit like a glove, and resemble a Charlotte. The secret is to put the buttered sides of the bread against the dish. This way, when it cooks, the bread becomes beautifully crispy. Scatter the sultanas and the mixed spice over the base before you prepare the custard.

2. Whisk the egg, egg yolk, sugar and vanilla extract in a bowl with the milk (and cream, if using). Pour this into the lined dish.

3. Arrange more triangles of buttered bread over the top, so they stand up like little soldiers (the buttered side being uppermost).

4. Grate a little nutmeg on top and sprinkle with caster sugar. Bake in a moderate oven (Gas Mark 4/180ºC/350ºF) in a Bain-marie for 45 minutes to 1 hour until the custard is set and the top is crisp and crunchy.

LEMON QUEEN OF PUDDINGS Traditionally jam is used in this pudding but I find it a little too sweet. Using lemon curd changes all this, and makes it into a great dish.

3 oz fresh white breadcrumbs ½ pint milk ½ pint single cream 1 lemon 2 oz butter 2 eggs yolks 2 oz caster sugar 2 tablespoons brandy (optional) 8 oz lemon curd Meringue 2 egg whites 4 oz caster sugar 1. Butter a 2 pint ovenproof dish and sprinkle the breadcrumbs in the bottom. Put the milk and cream into a saucepan with the zest of the lemon and the butter and heat until just warm. Beat the egg yolks with 2 oz of sugar in a mixing bowl and stir in the heated milk mixture and brandy (if using) until smooth. Pour over the breadcrumbs and leave to soak for at least 15 minutes. Bake in a bain-marie at 180ºC / 350ºF / Gas Mark 4 for 25 – 30 minutes, or until lightly set.

2. Mix the lemon curd with the juice of the lemon. Spread this over the top of the pudding.

3. For the meringue, whisk the egg whites until very stiff and fold in 4 oz sugar. Pile or pipe this meringue over the top of the lemon curd. Return the pudding to the oven for a further 15 – 20 minutes, or until the meringue is crisp and lightly browned. Serve hot TREACLE AND WALNUT TART I like to use walnuts in this traditional recipe, as they take off the sweetness, and add an interesting texture. Of course I do have a walnut tree in my garden, but other nuts can be used.

8 oz rich shortcrust pastry 8 oz golden syrup 4 oz fresh breadcrumbs 2 oz chopped walnuts Juice & rind of half a lemon ½ level teaspoon ginger (optional) 1. Line a 10 inch (25cm) tin or flan dish with the pastry.

2. In a bowl, mix all the other ingredients, and spread over the pastry. If you have a little pastry left over, then make twists with it, and lay them across the filling.

3. Bake for 15 minutes at Gas Mark 6 (200ºC, 400ºF), and then a further 30 minutes at Gas Mark 4 (180ºC, 350ºF). Serve hot or cold.